Watches and gems are always inseparable. In addition to the beautiful jewellery watches on the dial and the enamel on the strap, each high-end mechanical watch "core" has an irreplaceable ruby, this expensive accessory, hidden in the machine, plays the most important The role.
The best choice for movement bearings
In the original movement, many components were screwed into the holes in the bottom plate and the bridge, and were made of brass. However, it turned out that the brass could not resist the intrusion of fine dust particles, and the rotating shaft pressure and the friction damage caused by the high speed made the movement unbearable.
Until 1700, a Swiss and two French found that the rubbed as a bearing on the watch can greatly reduce friction and damage, significantly improve the life of the movement, and has been widely used since then.
Non-natural, more suitable
The ruby ​​used in the bearings in the movement is artificial! Don't dismiss it because it is artificial. Compared with natural ruby, it has no impurities in artificial synthesis, the texture is harder and even and wearable, and the drilling is more convenient. It can also match the most desirable red color according to the visual effect. Since the birth of artificial rubies in the early 20th century, the man-made ruby ​​with Al2O3 as the main component has been widely equipped in the movement.
Not necessarily a large number, guaranteeing the most important function
The ruby ​​in the movement is not as much as possible. In general, the more jewel bearings, the more complex the movement. But complexity is not everything, so you can't judge the quality of a movement by the number of gems alone. The number of rubies in the watch reflects the design style, the exquisite craftsmanship and the skill of the craftsmanship.
Within 25 are functional gems:
Two-wheel, three-wheel, second-wheel, escape wheel: 2X4=8;
Two drills for the upper and lower shock absorbers of the balance wheel: 2X2=4 pieces;
Two forks for the pallet fork and the fork tile: 2X2=4 drills;
One jewel on the top of the disc: one;
This is a 17-jewel configuration with a standard base movement.
Under the above standard configuration, if you add two diamonds to the box wheel, it is 19; the automatic system adds four or six, which is 21 and 23; the automatic calendar system adds 2, which is 25 rubies. These are all functional rubies.
Regardless of the number of PS, the number of rubies in most movements is singular because the discs in the escapement are single and the others are in pairs.
Movement ruby, mechanical watch love
Using rubies as a shaft to reduce friction is a customary way of watch manufacturing. At present, ruby ​​is recognized as the best way to solve the mechanical friction and pressure of the watch's movement bearing position, and also has a certain dustproof function. This can significantly improve the performance of the watch, in addition to the watch big names and watchmakers, other non-first-line brands will also be used. The emergence of artificial rubies has made this approach more widely available in mechanical watches.
The number of rubies is marked
The number of rubies will be marked on the back of the movement. The general format is uppercase English numbers (+ Roman numerals) + JEWELS. You can see them on the cover. Some back-to-back styles can be seen directly. In addition, the watch's instruction manual is included. There will also be clear labels.
Go and see how many gems are hidden in your love watch.
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